11 - Lyon - Lyon

Day 11

I planned to travel to Barcelona today, but my suitcase handle had fallen apart the previous evening. It was no longer possible to pull the cheap suitcase along on its wheels, so taking it any distance nigh on impossible. I either had to find some strong carpet tape or buy a new one. After a good breakfast I decided to visit the station first and check on the train times to Barcelona. I left my luggage in my room and told the receptionist that I would be back shortly. The station was virtually deserted but for eight intimidating police officers wearing full body-armor and armed with machine-guns. They were patrolling slowly, walking well spaced apart in groups of four. It seemed over the top security, but who was I to judge. Almost everywhere was shut including the ticket office, but there was at least an information desk and cafe open. It was clearly still too early, so I walked out of the station, past my hotel and down the road in search of a shop selling tape or suitcases. After a kilometer I had drawn a blank and looking at the map realised I was actually walking away from the centre. 

Outside the SNCF Lyon Part-Dieu station

I returned and on the way back found a stationary shop selling brown packing tape. I bought a roll, thinking it was probably better than carpet tape as it did not stretch. Back in my hotel room, I repaired the handle on my suitcase and packed to leave. Soon I was climbing up the three stationary escalators to the station. I asked at the information desk about trains to Barcelona, but no one could speak a word of English. They beckoned one of the security guards outside who came over led by a large muzzled dog. He spoke perfect English and showed me the ticket office I had already seen and told me it would open at 9:00. It was still only 8:30, so while waiting I checked the times of the trains on an automatic ticket machine. I found a direct train leaving mid morning, it was perfect, but being unsure of the validity of my Interrail pass once I had crossed the border into Spain, I wanted to reserve a seat. By 9:05 the ticket office still had not opened and showed no sign of opening. I looked at the opening times again on the door and noticed on Sundays it did not open till 9:30 and today was Sunday. I headed for the cafe to sit it out.

Although the River Rhone goes through Lyon this was the La Saone river

I drank my cappuccino sat in a comfortable armchair and watched as the station slowly came to life. At the ticket desk the young clerk informed me I could not take the train I had selected as it did not exist. I could see this was going to be difficult, as he had a young girl sat behind him who he probably wanted to impress. He ummed and ahed, then offered me a costly alternative with numerous changes. I was not happy as it only took me to the Spanish border and not Barcelona. I complained, arguing what was the point of these machines if they gave out wrong information. He said it was very busy today and all direct trains were booked. I said I would think about what to do and maybe go tomorrow instead. Before leaving I checked the ticket machine again and clearly there was a direct train mid morning to Barcelona with places available, so I returned to the ticket desk to ask him about it. He denied there was a train, annoying me, but agreed to check the machine with me. Seeing the information on the machine's screen he could no longer deny there was a train, but instead claimed there were no seats available for Interrail pass holders. He also informed me I had to get the train from Lyon Part-Dieu, the station I had passed through the previous evening. However he advised me not to go there for a ticket as it was very busy. I knew it would end in tears here if I continued, so ignoring his advice I decided to go to Lyon Part-Dieu station and sort things out from there. The TGV to Geneva took me the short distance to Lyon Part-Dieu, it was busy but no worse than I had experienced elsewhere. I asked about direct trains to Barcelona but they confirmed there was nothing today for Interrail travelers but there was one the following morning, so I decided to look for a hotel and stay another night in Lyon. Just outside the station I found the Ibis hotel, it was reasonably priced and I was able to check in straight away. Afterwards I returned to the station to reserve my seat to Barcelona before they were booked out. Now I had the whole day for looking around Lyon and it was Sunday, my luggage had been taken care of, a perfect start to the day.

 Climbing up to the Basillica Lyon reveals itself.

Looking at the city map I reckoned taking the C3 trolley-bus to Cordeliers, west of the river La Saone was my best bet. The ride through the city crossed the river and was more interesting than using the metro. Once the trolley-bus had crossed the bridge I got off and was soon walking down a very wide traffic free zone with people strolling around in their Sunday best. Here crowds had been attracted by a fountain statue covered with pink flowers and a fairground ride. It was nearing lunchtime so I began looking out for somewhere to eat hoping to find a quaint French restaurant down a side street. All I could find was a very popular pizzeria on the edge of a wide open square. I was guided to a table for two and ordered a Caesar's chicken salad and a beer. The beer came immediately, much appreciated in a very elegant beer glass. A tasty salad arrived not long afterwards but it took me some time to munch my way through it. Replenished I was ready for my tourist walk. High up on a hill was the impressive Basillica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere and hard to miss when arriving in Lyon. Yesterday I could only dream about visiting it, but now I was not far away and re-energized after my lunch, so I set out to climb the hill. It took me about an hour, stopping often to take panoramic photos of the city as it revealed itself the higher I climbed. Once on top I was really too close to see the Basillica properly but instead had a fantastic aerial view of Lyon.

The Basillica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere.

I bought a bottle of water and an ice cream and walked around the Basillica looking for a good angle to photograph. An hour later I was zigzagging my way back down the garden pathway. I crossed the river on a pedestrian bridge and took the metro to Lyon Part-Dieu station. The evening was spent relaxing, booking my hotel in Barcelona and sorting out my provisions for tomorrow's long journey.

Part of the Basillica close up.

Inside the Basillica

Meanwhile back down in the city there were plenty of quaint streets to be found.